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The call of the owl – Day 14

Plenty of G’s brethren were about as we climbed back up the steep and unmade road. They were crowding onto the track munching thistles and several times we had to ...
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Siren call – Day 11

I had planned on staying at Eski Foca. Its jagged black rocks that, when the Meltemi blows, make a howling whine said to be that of the sirens of mythology. ...
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Hospital pass – Day 10

Next morning I had a pleasant breakfast of soft boiled eggs, toast and coffee.  I asked Theodore if I could negotiate a late check-out. ‘No need’ he said, ‘the room ...
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Nea Moni – Day 8

Two thirty in the am. Banging on the cabin door. ‘Meester waking up please! Ship is docking!’ Chios! Widely believed to be the birthplace of Homer, I’m not loving you ...
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To Loutakia – Day 6

Reminder to self. Remember the deck number you left your car on.  I spent fifteen minutes with the backpack sweating it up and down narrow companionways with everyone else going ...
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Ferry to Patras – Day 5

I was woken at six thirty by passengers disembarking at Igoumenitsa. Another eight hours until we reached Patras.  I tossed and turned in the giant bed of my even more ...
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